Rental Apartment Move-In Condition Inspection

ContextTest the deadbolt and handle lock independently — some handle locks are seized from disuse. Check weatherstripping along the full perimeter of the door frame by looking for daylight gaps or compressed foam that no longer seals. Note any dents, paint chips, or gouges on the exterior face; these are often charged as 'damage' at move-out despite being caused by delivery crews or prior tenants.

ContextWork through the complete set of keys on move-in day, not a week later when something doesn't work. If a key sticks or fails to operate a lock smoothly, report it in writing immediately — locksmith calls are expensive and landlords sometimes dispute responsibility for worn cylinders.

ContextThe threshold strip where the flooring transitions at the door is frequently cracked or loose. Document it precisely — a 'damaged threshold in entryway' note costs nothing to write and can save you the $80–$150 a landlord might try to charge for replacement.

ContextShine the flashlight beam at a shallow angle across each wall surface. This technique creates shadows behind dents and gouges that are invisible under normal overhead lighting. Measure and note large holes by size and position ('1.5-inch hole approximately 4 feet high on the south wall, to the right of the coat closet').

ContextClosets are the most skipped area in tenant inspections and among the most common sources of disputed charges. Open and close the door fully, test the light switch, confirm the rod brackets are screwed securely into the wall, and check the closet floor for stains or moisture that might indicate a roof or plumbing leak above.

ContextHave someone call from the exterior panel while you're inside to confirm the intercom speaker and door-release function both work. A broken buzzer is a minor habitability nuisance but can become your problem if not documented on day one.

ContextUse the flashlight at a low angle and walk each wall section by section. Measure and describe any hole larger than a standard picture-hanging nail — courts consistently rule that landlords cannot charge for small nail holes as these constitute normal wear and tear, but holes from anchors, shelving bolts, or multiple clustered holes may be charged. Write the location specifically: 'two 1/4-inch holes, 6 inches apart, 5 feet up on the east wall.'

ContextBrown or yellowish rings on ceilings are the single most important flag to document. They indicate a past or active water leak from a roof, plumbing stack, or the unit above — which becomes a habitability issue if it recurs during your tenancy. Photograph every ring with a wide shot showing the ceiling in context, then a close-up with your hand for scale.

ContextWalk slowly and feel for soft spots, springiness, or hollow sounds underfoot — these indicate subfloor damage or delamination. Carpet stains near exterior walls or windows often signal water intrusion from outside. Hardwood floors: look for cupped or buckling boards, which are signs of moisture exposure, not normal wear.

ContextOpen and close each window fully, then engage the lock. A window that won't lock is a security issue and legally required to function. Look between the panes of double-pane glass — condensation or fogging trapped inside means the thermal seal has failed. The glass is still structurally intact but the landlord may try to charge for replacement; document it now so the pre-existing failure is on record.

ContextTest every slat on each blind — bent or broken slats are frequently charged at $10–$30 per blind at move-out. Test the raise/lower and tilt mechanisms. Check curtain rods for secure mounting; a rod pulling away from the wall means the drywall anchor is failing, not something you caused.

ContextPlug your charger into each outlet — including floor-level outlets that are easy to overlook — and confirm charging begins. A dead outlet may indicate a tripped GFCI outlet elsewhere that needs to be reset (check bathrooms and kitchen for GFCI test/reset buttons), a tripped breaker, or faulty wiring. Record the exact location of any non-functional outlet.

ContextSome switches control outlets rather than overhead fixtures — if flipping a switch does nothing obvious, try plugging a lamp into each outlet in the room while the switch is toggled. Note any switch that buzzes, flickers, or requires multiple attempts to operate.

ContextRun the fan at low, medium, and high. Any wobble indicates an unbalanced blade or failing motor mount — document it so you are not charged if it worsens. Test the light function separately from the fan using the pull chain or wall switch. Note if the light works only at certain fan speeds, which signals a wiring issue.

ContextA gap between the bottom of the baseboard and the floor, or between the top of the baseboard and the wall, can indicate settling, moisture swelling, or poor original installation. Document it. Landlords sometimes attribute baseboard gaps to 'tenant damage' even when the cause is structural.

ContextCheck for damaged or missing faceplates. If you plan to use a wired internet connection, plug in a known-working cable to verify connectivity before assuming the jack is functional.

ContextFor laminate countertops, check the seams between sections and the exposed edges — chips here are extremely common pre-existing damage. For stone or tile counters, inspect corners for chips. Burns from previous tenants' pots and pans are almost always present around the stove area; document their size and location precisely since burn damage is one of the most commonly disputed items in deposit disputes.

ContextA cabinet door that won't close flush indicates a loose hinge — tighten it now or document it. Stuck drawer slides are often just dirty but document them either way. Inside every cabinet, check for evidence of pest activity: small dark droppings in corners, chewed packaging residue, or greasy smear marks along cabinet walls.

ContextRun the kitchen faucet at full pressure for 30 seconds, then immediately open the under-sink cabinet and watch the drain connections and supply lines for drips. Even a slow drip will eventually create the soft wood and black mold that you may be asked to pay for. A musty odor without visible damage often means mold is already growing inside the cabinet wall behind the back panel.

ContextRun both hot and cold at full pressure and check that they operate independently. Fill the sink to about half capacity, then watch how quickly it drains — a slow drain means a partial clog that predates your tenancy. Test the spray nozzle if present. Check the porcelain or stainless basin for chips, stains, and rust.

ContextAlways run water before and during disposal operation. A humming sound with no movement means the reset button at the bottom of the unit has tripped — press it to reset. A grinding or rattling noise suggests an object or damaged grinding plate inside. Document any abnormality rather than attempting to fix it yourself.

ContextRun the rinse cycle and open the door partway during the cycle to confirm water is entering. Check that the spray arms spin freely when pushed — a stuck spray arm means poor cleaning but also indicates prior hard water buildup or breakage. Inspect the rack rollers: broken rollers cause the rack to jam, and replacements cost $20–$60 but may be charged at full appliance-service rates.

ContextFor gas stoves: each burner should ignite within 2–3 seconds of the knob clicking. A burner that won't ignite, ignites unevenly, or won't stay lit after releasing the knob needs a technician. Set the oven to 350°F and wait 15 minutes; an oven thermometer (available for $8 at any kitchen store) will confirm whether the stated temperature matches actual temperature — a significant mismatch means a faulty thermostat. Test the broiler on high for 2–3 minutes.

ContextA range hood that vents only to a charcoal filter (recirculating) vs. one that vents outside will have a different level of effectiveness — check which type yours is, as the filter requires periodic replacement that may be your lease responsibility. A broken range hood creates fire risk and poor air quality; note any speed that doesn't function or a fan that runs continuously without shutting off.

ContextPlace a glass of water in the freezer and return after 10 minutes; it should be noticeably colder. Test door seals by closing a dollar bill in the door and pulling — you should feel real resistance. A broken seal lets cold air escape, and the compressor runs constantly, driving up your electric bill if utilities are tenant-paid. Inspect all shelves and crisper drawers for cracks, since replacements can be $30–$80 per piece. If the unit has an ice maker, confirm water is connected and the unit is switched on.

ContextWater in a cup placed in the center should be noticeably warmer after 30 seconds on high. A door that doesn't close flush or seal properly creates radiation leakage and should be documented and reported as a maintenance issue on day one.

ContextThese three zones are the most likely locations for soft subfloor damage from previous water leaks. Press firmly with your foot in each area and listen for a hollow, springy feel. Tile in these areas should be pressed individually — a tile that flexes or sounds hollow when tapped has lost its adhesion, often from moisture underneath.

ContextMissing, cracked, or heavily discolored grout around the stove and sink areas allows water and grease to penetrate behind the tile, eventually damaging the wall behind. Note every gap in caulk along the countertop-to-wall seam — these are high-priority water intrusion points.

ContextSome kitchens have a ceiling or wall exhaust fan in addition to the range hood. Run it for 10 seconds and confirm airflow. Hold a piece of tissue near the vent — it should be pulled toward the fan. No draw means a disconnected duct or failed motor.

ContextAfter flushing, watch the tank fill completely and confirm the running sound stops fully within 60–90 seconds. A toilet that runs continuously or restarts running 10–15 minutes after flushing has a leaking flapper — this wastes up to 200 gallons per day and may appear on your water bill if utilities are tenant-paid. Grip the toilet at the base and apply light side-to-side pressure; any movement indicates a loose floor flange, which can allow sewer gas entry and water damage to the subfloor.

ContextDrop 5–10 drops of food coloring (or a dye tablet) into the tank without flushing. Wait 15 minutes. If color appears in the bowl without flushing, the flapper is leaking silently. This test is the only way to detect a slow flapper leak that won't show up as a running sound but will still appear on a water utility bill.

ContextFill the tub to ankle depth and then pull the stopper — a healthy drain should clear completely within 30–60 seconds. A slow drain means an existing partial clog. Check the caulk bead along every joint where the tub meets the wall and floor — a gap or missing section here is a direct water pathway into the subfloor and wall cavity. This is one of the most expensive repairs in apartments ($500–$3,000 for subfloor replacement) and landlords will look for someone to blame.

ContextRun the shower at full hot for 2 minutes and confirm the temperature is genuinely hot — lukewarm maximum hot water is a sign of a failing water heater or a thermostatic mixing valve set too low, which is a habitability concern. Test the showerhead for broken settings. Inspect all grout lines and the caulk joint at the base of the shower walls — cracked or missing grout in a shower is not cosmetic; it is an active water intrusion path.

ContextSame protocol as the kitchen sink: full hot and cold separately, drain speed with a half-filled basin, and basin inspection for chips. Note any discoloration around the drain ring — persistent orange or green staining indicates mineral content in the water supply that pre-dates your tenancy.

ContextOpen the under-sink cabinet and let the faucet run at full pressure for 30 seconds while you watch every pipe joint, supply line, and drain connection. A drip that appears only under full flow pressure would never be caught by a casual visual check. Run your finger along each joint — even a damp joint without a visible drip should be documented.

ContextHold a single square of toilet paper near the grille while the fan runs — it should be pulled flat against the grille and held there by suction. If it falls away, the fan is either disconnected or the motor is failing. Note excessive noise, which can indicate a worn bearing that will get progressively louder. A non-functioning bathroom exhaust fan is a code violation in most jurisdictions because it leads to mold growth — report it as a maintenance request on day one.

ContextBlack spots along the edges of a mirror indicate that the silver backing is oxidizing — a cosmetic aging issue unrelated to your tenancy. Note it anyway. Push gently on all four corners of a large wall mirror to confirm it is securely mounted; an improperly anchored mirror that falls later could be attributed to you.

ContextApply gentle outward pressure to each towel bar and holder. A fixture that pulls away from the wall has anchors that have already failed or are failing — this is extremely common in rentals. If you don't document it now, a future pull-out will look like your damage, and drywall anchor repair plus repainting can cost $150–$400.

ContextPress each tile individually in the shower and tub surround — a hollow sound or movement means the adhesive behind has failed, often from moisture. Missing grout lines in any wet area (shower, tub surround, floor around toilet) are an active water damage risk and should be reported as maintenance on move-in day.

ContextA bathroom door that won't latch or lock is a habitability and privacy issue in most jurisdictions. Note the specific problem — whether the door swells against the frame, the latch doesn't extend far enough, or the lock cylinder is broken.

ContextPay particular attention to the area behind where a bed headboard would typically be placed — this zone takes the most impact from moving furniture in and out and is almost always marked from prior tenants. Also check the wall at desk height along the wall where a desk or chair would sit. Scuff marks at chair-back height are nearly universal and constitute normal wear — but document them anyway.

ContextMove systematically across the full floor from one corner to the opposite. Carpet stains near an exterior wall or window suggest water intrusion, not spills — which is relevant if the landlord tries to charge for carpet cleaning in that specific area. For hardwood, look for cupped boards near exterior walls, which indicate moisture, and deep scratches versus surface scratches, which have very different repair costs.

ContextTest the closet door through its full swing to confirm it clears the floor and frame. Confirm the rod brackets are screwed into wall studs or have drywall anchors — a rod that collapses under the weight of hanging clothes will pull out the surrounding drywall. Note any odor inside the closet: a musty smell in a bedroom closet can indicate mold growing in the wall behind the closet, often from an exterior moisture issue.

ContextEvery window in a sleeping area must lock properly — this is both a security requirement and, in many jurisdictions, a habitability standard. A window that cannot be latched shut should be reported as a maintenance request the same day.

ContextCheck outlets at bedside height, at desk height, and near the door. Note the location of any GFCI outlet in the bedroom — these are unusual but appear in some newer construction and can affect whether other outlets in the room work.

ContextNote any flickering, buzzing, or need to toggle the switch repeatedly. If the fixture uses a dimmer, test it at low, mid, and full brightness — dimmers that buzz at low levels have a compatibility issue with the bulb type and are a pre-existing condition.

ContextCheck that the register cover is not missing or broken, that the louvers open and close, and that the duct opening behind the register is clear of debris. A missing or blocked vent in a sleeping room creates an inadequate heating or cooling condition, which is a habitability concern in most U.S. climates.

ContextSet it to a full cold wash cycle on a small load setting (no laundry needed). During the fill cycle, check under the machine and behind it along the hose connections. For front-loading washers, inspect the rubber door gasket for black mold growth, which is extremely common and indicates prior inadequate cleaning. A moldy gasket is typically ruled a maintenance issue rather than tenant damage.

ContextRun the dryer on high heat for 5 minutes with a single damp item or wet towel. Hold your hand near the exhaust duct exit (if accessible) — you should feel warm, moist air. A dryer that runs but produces no heat has a failed heating element ($80–$150 part) or a blown thermal fuse. Check the lint trap: a missing or torn filter screen must be documented — dryer fires caused by lint bypass are serious and you do not want to inherit responsibility.

ContextTrace the flexible duct from the back of the dryer to where it exits through the wall. It should not be kinked, crushed, or disconnected at any joint. A disconnected dryer duct vents hot, humid, lint-laden air directly into the apartment or wall cavity — it is a fire hazard and a moisture source. This is a maintenance issue to report immediately, not something to attempt to fix yourself.

ContextPress firmly on the floor directly in front of the washer and in any area that has absorbed water historically. A soft or spongy spot indicates previous washer overflow or hose failure that damaged the subfloor. This is critical to document because you will be near the top of the suspect list if subfloor damage is discovered at move-out.

ContextBoth valves should turn fully open and fully closed without seizing. Knowing where these valves are before you need them in an emergency — a burst hose can flood an apartment in minutes — is practical safety knowledge. If either valve is stiff or corroded, note it as a maintenance request.

ContextSet the thermostat 5°F above current room temperature for heat and confirm warm air begins flowing at registers within 3–5 minutes. Then test cooling. If either system does not respond, check that the thermostat is set to the correct mode (heat/cool, not just 'fan'). A system that runs but produces no temperature change has a refrigerant issue (AC) or ignition/burner failure (heat) — both require professional service and should be reported immediately.

ContextPull the filter out of the air handler or return vent and hold it up to the light. If you cannot see light through it, the filter is overdue for replacement — this is a landlord maintenance issue to document. Check your lease for who is responsible for filter changes: many leases specify tenant responsibility for filters and provide a replacement schedule. If your lease requires it, photograph the dirty filter as proof of the state it was in at move-in.

ContextRun the hot water tap at the kitchen and bathroom simultaneously for 2 minutes and confirm genuinely hot output at both. Then locate the water heater and inspect the tank exterior for rust streaks (which indicate slow corrosion), drips from the temperature-pressure relief valve, and any water in the drip pan beneath. A water heater showing active rust or drip-pan water should be flagged as a potential failure-risk item in your documentation.

ContextOpen the panel door and take a clear photo of the full breaker map and labeling. Note any breaker sitting in the center 'tripped' position — these indicate a circuit that has faulted. Flip any tripped breaker fully to OFF and then fully to ON to reset it. If it immediately trips again, there is an active wiring fault on that circuit. Note which breakers are unlabeled — this matters when you need to cut power quickly in an emergency.

ContextHold the test button for 3–5 seconds. A detector that produces only a weak chirp or no sound has a dead or missing battery, or a failed detector. Most states require smoke detectors in every sleeping room and in the hallway outside sleeping rooms. If any required detector is missing or non-functional, report it immediately in writing — this is both a life-safety issue and a landlord legal obligation.

ContextPress the test button on each CO detector. States including California, Colorado, Illinois, and New York require CO detectors in units with gas appliances, attached garages, or gas-fired heating. A non-functional CO detector in a gas-appliance unit is a legal violation by the landlord — document and report it as a maintenance emergency on move-in day.

ContextRun the kitchen faucet and a bathroom faucet at full pressure simultaneously. A severe pressure drop at one or both indicates a building-wide supply issue, a partially closed main shutoff valve, or a pressure-reducing valve that needs adjustment. Very low pressure also affects how well appliances like dishwashers and washing machines clean — document it if pressure seems inadequate.

ContextAsk the landlord or property manager to show you the location of the main water shutoff, gas main shutoff, and individual appliance shutoffs for the stove, washing machine, and water heater. Take a photo of each labeled location. This is operational safety knowledge, not just an inspection step — in a burst pipe or gas smell scenario, seconds matter.

ContextWalk the full length of the railing and push firmly outward at multiple points. Any movement, wobble, or loose fasteners make this a safety hazard — report it in writing the same day regardless of your move-in timing. A balcony railing that fails is a life-threatening structural defect, and the landlord is legally required to address it regardless of when it was discovered.

ContextSliding glass doors should move the full length of the track without lifting, binding, or jumping. Test the lock in both the open and closed position. Check the rubber seal at the base of the door for gaps — a failed seal is a source of cold drafts and moisture intrusion at the floor level just inside the door.

ContextTest any light fixtures on your balcony, patio, or building entrance that are associated with your unit. A non-working exterior light on a balcony is both a security and a safety issue in low-light conditions.

ContextCheck the storage room floor for moisture staining, the walls and ceiling for mold growth, and the entry area for evidence of pest activity. A musty odor alone in a closed storage space often indicates mold growth inside the walls. Document the condition of any shelving, lighting, or locking hardware that is included with the storage unit.

ContextIf you have an assigned garage parking space, photograph the space from multiple angles before you ever park there. Note any oil stains on the floor, damage to the curb stop, scrapes on the surrounding walls or pillars, or overhead clearance markings. A scrape on a garage pillar that existed before you arrived should be on record.

ContextPull the refrigerator away from the wall and look along the back edge and floor underneath. Check the upper inside corners of all kitchen and bathroom cabinets with your flashlight. Cockroach droppings look like small black specks or pepper. A live cockroach sighting during a daytime inspection is a significant indicator of infestation, since cockroaches are nocturnal. An established infestation at move-in is a habitability violation — document it photographically and report it in writing before accepting the unit.

ContextFocus on areas where plumbing pipes enter walls — these gaps are the primary rodent entry points in apartments. Check inside the under-sink cabinet at pipe penetrations for gaps wider than a pencil. Rodent droppings are dark, elongated, and most commonly found along walls and in cabinet corners. Active rodent infestation is a habitability issue in every U.S. jurisdiction.

ContextIf the unit is furnished or partially furnished, inspect mattress seams, box spring edges, and the headboard frame for small dark spots (fecal staining), shed skins, or live insects. Bed bugs are small, flat, and reddish-brown. A flashlight and a credit card to run along seams are the basic tools for a visual check. Refusing to accept a unit with bed bug evidence before move-in is far easier than resolving an infestation after you have moved in.

ContextMold appears as fuzzy black, green, gray, or white growth and produces a musty odor. A musty smell without visible mold may indicate growth inside walls or behind baseboards — note the odor and its location in writing. Any mold in a rental unit is a landlord maintenance obligation, not tenant responsibility, unless you can be shown to have caused it through inadequate ventilation. Photograph every mold spot with a ruler or coin for scale.

ContextBrown or yellowish ring stains anywhere in the unit tell a history of water intrusion. A stain that appears dry and old may represent a resolved issue — or it may be a recurring one. Document every stain regardless. If the same stain location reappears with new moisture during your tenancy, your move-in photo is evidence that the source pre-existed your occupancy.

ContextEnable timestamps in your phone camera settings or photograph a handwritten date card in the frame. Take two shots of each item: a wide shot showing the room context so the location is clear, then a close-up showing the specific damage. Both photos together are far stronger evidence than either alone. Use the panorama function for room overviews.

ContextSpeak clearly as you walk: describe what you see and where you are ('In the master bathroom, there is a crack in the lower-left wall tile, approximately 3 inches long, at floor level'). Upload the video to Google Drive or iCloud immediately and do not delete it. If the file is too large to email, include the sharing link in your documentation email to the landlord.

ContextSystematically confirm: entry, living room, all bedrooms, all bathrooms, kitchen, laundry area, all closets, any outdoor space, and storage unit. Closets and secondary bathrooms are the most frequently missed spaces in tenant inspections.

ContextOn move-in day, photograph the digital readout or analog dial face of every utility meter associated with your unit. This creates an irrefutable starting baseline that prevents you from being billed for the prior tenant's consumption if the utility account transition overlaps your move-in date.

ContextUse the subject line format: 'Move-In Condition Report — [Full Unit Address] — [Move-In Date]'. BCC yourself. Request a reply acknowledgment explicitly in the email body: 'Please reply to confirm receipt.' Keep the sent email and any reply permanently in a cloud folder dedicated to this tenancy.

ContextCreate a folder named 'Apt — [Address] — [Move-In Year]' in Google Drive, Dropbox, or iCloud. Copy the lease, the move-in inspection report, all photos, the video link, and every piece of landlord correspondence here. Do not store this only on your phone — devices are lost, broken, and wiped. Cloud backup is the only reliable archive for a multi-year tenancy.

ContextEvery item you marked as damaged or non-functional — the running toilet, the ignition burner that won't light, the broken blind — should be submitted as a written maintenance request to the landlord on move-in day. This separates what you are reporting from what you accept as-is. Use the landlord's official maintenance request system if one exists, or email. Keep copies of every request and every response.