28 items

Gaming PC Build

The step-by-step build guide that catches what first-time builders miss: the bench test, the forgotten 8-pin CPU connector, the correct RAM slots, and the BIOS settings your hardware needs before you launch a single game. For more background and examples, see the guidance below; for built-in tools and options, use the quick tools guide.

Author

Checklistify Editorial Team

Last Updated

Checklist Items

0 done•28 left•5 of 6 sections collapsed

Choose a CPU and verify motherboard socket type and BIOS version support

CPU socket compatibility is non-negotiable: AMD AM5 CPUs require AM5 motherboards; Intel LGA1700 requires LGA1700 boards — the two are never interchangeable. The secondary concern is BIOS version: some older boards require a firmware update to recognize newer CPU generations, which itself requires a compatible CPU to perform the update. This chicken-and-egg problem is real and has left new builders stuck. Before purchasing, check the motherboard manufacturer's CPU support list (QVL). Some retailers offer a paid BIOS flash service if you have no compatible update CPU. PCPartPicker (pcpartpicker.com) automates the majority of these checks and flags known incompatibilities in your parts list before you spend money.

Verify RAM type (DDR4 vs DDR5), rated speed, and motherboard QVL compatibility

DDR4 and DDR5 slots are physically keyed differently — a DDR5 kit will not physically seat in a DDR4 motherboard slot. Confirm generation first. For speed: RAM kits advertised at high speeds (e.g., DDR5-6000) require XMP or EXPO profile activation in BIOS to run at rated speed — without it, they default to the JEDEC base speed (typically DDR5-4800), a significant performance reduction you pay for but don't receive. For AMD Ryzen platforms, DDR5-6000 at a 1:1 Infinity Fabric ratio is a well-tested sweet spot offering the best price-to-performance balance. Check your motherboard's RAM QVL (Qualified Vendor List) for confirmed compatible kits — some kits behave differently even at identical spec.

Calculate required PSU wattage: CPU TDP + GPU TDP + 100W for rest of system, then add 20–30% headroom

An undersized PSU is the most consequential component mistake in a build — it causes crashes under load, degrades component longevity, and can damage hardware during a failure event. To size correctly: add the TDP of your CPU and GPU (both listed in product specifications), add approximately 100W for motherboard, RAM, fans, and storage, then multiply the total by 1.25–1.30 for power delivery efficiency loss and headroom. NVIDIA, AMD, and Seasonic offer online wattage calculators. Builds with high-end GPUs (RTX 4080, RTX 4090, RX 7900 XTX) typically require 850W–1000W. PSU quality matters as much as wattage: a Tier A unit — Seasonic Focus/Prime, Corsair RMx/HXi, be quiet! Straight Power, EVGA SuperNOVA G-series — delivers stable power and protects every component downstream. A low-quality PSU is the one failure that cascades damage to your GPU, motherboard, and RAM simultaneously; this is the wrong place to save money.

Confirm case clearances: maximum GPU length, CPU cooler height, and radiator mounting positions

Physical fit incompatibilities discovered mid-build are expensive in time and frustrating to resolve. Three dimensions to verify: maximum GPU length vs. your GPU's length (most mid-towers support up to 330mm; some compact cases are as short as 280mm); maximum CPU cooler height vs. your cooler's height (cases list this in specifications); AIO radiator mounting locations and supported sizes vs. your AIO's radiator size — a 360mm AIO requires a case with a top or front 360mm mounting position. All measurements are in the case and component spec sheets. PCPartPicker flags many of these automatically but does not catch all radiator mounting configuration mismatches — check the case manual's mounting diagram directly.

Set up your workspace: hard non-carpeted surface, strong overhead lighting, and a small tray for screws

Static electricity from carpeted surfaces can damage CPUs and RAM. A hard desk or table surface is sufficient — anti-static mats are useful but not required. Strong overhead lighting is underestimated: the interior of most PC cases is poorly lit, and connecting front panel headers or reading cable labels requires clear visibility. A small cup or tray for screws prevents losses during assembly — a typical build involves 20–30 screws across multiple sizes, and mixing them or losing one inside the case causes unnecessary delays. Keep all component boxes nearby: original packaging protects unused components, and every included manual is referenced during the build.

Collect every component manual before starting — the motherboard manual especially

The motherboard manual is the single most referenced document during a PC build. It contains the RAM slot configuration diagram, the front panel header pinout (the most fiddly connection in any build), CPU fan and pump header locations, M.2 slot protocol information (NVMe vs. SATA), and BIOS navigation instructions. Download the PDF version from the manufacturer's support page as a backup — the printed manual's diagrams are often too small to read clearly. For your CPU cooler: installation procedures vary significantly between models (backplate styles, torque requirements, contact frame differences). Follow the cooler's included sheet exactly, as generic instructions will not reflect your specific mounting hardware.

Snap the I/O shield into the rear panel opening of the case — before the motherboard

The I/O shield — the stamped metal plate with cutouts for USB, audio, and display ports — must be pressed into the rear opening of the case from the inside before the motherboard is installed. Once the motherboard is in place, this opening is inaccessible without removing the board entirely. Press each corner firmly until it snaps into position; loose corners will cause it to fall out later. Confirm orientation: USB cutouts should align with the case's rear panel opening. This is the single most commonly forgotten step by first-time builders, and skipping it means disassembly after you've already routed cables.

Perform the bench test: assemble CPU, cooler, RAM, and GPU on the motherboard outside the case and confirm POST

The bench test means assembling the minimum viable system — CPU, cooler, one RAM stick, GPU, and PSU — on top of the motherboard box rather than inside the case, then powering on to verify the system POSTs (Power-On Self Test: the screen displays BIOS or a boot menu). The purpose is to identify dead-on-arrival components and wiring mistakes before full case installation, when disassembly is easy. A completed-build no-POST requires case disassembly and adds 1–2 hours of troubleshooting. To power on during the bench test without the case's power button: briefly bridge the two PWR_SW header pins on the motherboard with a screwdriver — the system starts as if the power button was pressed. Confirm your board model's header location in the manual first.

Install the CPU — align the triangle corner marker, zero insertion force, lower the retention arm

The triangle marker on one corner of the CPU aligns with a matching triangle on the motherboard socket. For AMD AM5 and Intel LGA platforms, the CPU drops into the socket under its own weight with zero applied force — any resistance means misalignment, and forcing causes bent pins on the socket. Lower the retention arm to lock the CPU. Apply thermal paste before mounting the cooler: a pea-sized dot centered on the IHS (Integrated Heat Spreader) is the standard method; mounting pressure distributes it adequately. If your cooler ships with pre-applied thermal paste, do not add more. Excess paste that overflows the IHS edge can contact motherboard components and cause electrical issues.

Install the CPU cooler — tighten mounting screws gradually in an X pattern, stop at firm resistance

Cooling installation errors cause thermal throttling that visibly reduces gaming performance, yet they're often diagnosed late. For tower coolers with a backplate: install the backplate hardware through the rear of the motherboard before it goes into the case — it cannot be accessed afterward. Tighten the cooler's mounting screws in an X or diagonal pattern, alternating sides rather than going around the perimeter, to apply even pressure across the IHS and prevent socket warping. Stop when firmly seated — overtightening does not improve contact and can crack the PCB. For AIO coolers: the pump head must sit flush against the IHS; the radiator should ideally mount at the top of the case as an exhaust for optimal thermal performance. Verify in BIOS after first boot that the CPU fan header shows an RPM reading.

#10

Install RAM in dual-channel slots — typically A2 and B2, not the slots directly adjacent to the CPU

Installing two RAM sticks in the correct slots enables dual-channel mode, which doubles memory bandwidth compared to single-channel operation — meaningfully impacting integrated graphics performance and benefiting discrete GPU workloads. The correct slots for two sticks are typically the second and fourth from the CPU socket, labeled A2 and B2 on most boards — not the two slots closest to the CPU. The motherboard manual's RAM diagram specifies the optimal configuration for your specific board. Installing in the wrong slots results in single-channel operation: the system works, but memory bandwidth is halved. Confirm the BIOS reports the correct channel mode after first boot.

#11

Install the M.2 NVMe SSD before placing the motherboard in the case

M.2 slots are located in areas of the motherboard that become difficult or impossible to access after the GPU and CPU cooler are installed. Install the M.2 drive now: remove the slot's heatsink cover if present, insert the drive at its natural seating angle (typically 30 degrees from the board surface), press the far end flat, and secure with the retaining screw. Verify the slot supports NVMe: some motherboards include both NVMe-capable and SATA-only M.2 slots. An NVMe drive installed in a SATA-only slot will not appear in BIOS at all — check the manual's M.2 slot diagram before seating the drive.

#12

Install the motherboard into the case — verify standoff positions match your board's form factor first

Motherboard standoffs are the brass threaded posts that elevate the PCB off the case floor, preventing electrical shorts. Most cases come pre-installed for ATX; verify that the standoff positions match your board's screw hole layout — ATX, Micro-ATX, and Mini-ITX all use different patterns. A misaligned standoff touching the PCB without a corresponding screw hole creates a short circuit. Lower the motherboard's rear port cluster into the I/O shield opening first, aligning port cutouts, then lay the board flat onto the standoffs. Tighten all screws — loose screws allow board flex under cable tension.

#13

Install the GPU in the top PCIe x16 slot and remove the matching case expansion slot covers first

The top PCIe x16 slot, closest to the CPU socket, provides full GPU bandwidth and is the correct home for the primary graphics card. Before inserting the GPU, identify and remove the 2–3 case expansion slot covers that align with the GPU's bracket and port cluster — hold the card next to the case rear to identify the correct covers before removing them. Insert the GPU firmly and evenly until the PCIe slot retention latch audibly clicks. Connect all PCIe power connectors before the first boot: modern GPUs require one or two 8-pin connectors or the 16-pin 12VHPWR connector — every required connector must be fully seated. A partially powered GPU will either produce no display output or shut down within seconds under its first GPU load.

#14

Connect all three essential PSU power cables: 24-pin motherboard, 8-pin CPU, and PCIe GPU power

The system will not POST without all three connections made correctly. (1) The 24-pin ATX connector attaches to the right side of the motherboard and only fits one way. (2) The 8-pin CPU power connector goes to the top-left corner of the motherboard near the CPU socket — it's labeled CPU_PWR, ATX12V, or EATX12V depending on the board and is entirely separate from the 24-pin. This is the most frequently missed connection: the symptom is a system that powers on with lights and fans spinning but no display output whatsoever. (3) PCIe power connectors attach directly to the GPU — 8-pin, 6+2-pin, or 16-pin depending on the specific model, and all must be plugged in fully until the retention clip engages.

#15

Connect front panel headers — power switch, reset switch, power LED, and activity LED

Front panel headers are the cluster of small 2-pin connectors from the case's front panel that plug into a grid of pins on the motherboard, typically labeled PANEL or JFP1. They control the power button, reset button, and status LEDs. Power switch and reset switch connectors are not polarity-sensitive and work in either orientation. LED connectors are polarity-sensitive: the positive wire (often marked with a stripe, labeled +, or colored red or white) connects to the positive pin. Use the motherboard manual's header layout diagram — not the case manual — to identify each pin position. Long-nose tweezers make seating each small connector significantly easier.

#16

Connect front panel USB headers: USB 3.0 large single connector and USB 2.0 nine-pin block

The front panel USB 3.0 header is a large single blue connector that plugs into a corresponding USB 3.0 header on the motherboard, typically located near the bottom edge of the board. The USB 2.0 header is a 9-pin block with one missing pin — the missing pin is a keying feature that prevents incorrect insertion. Both should be seated firmly until they feel stable. If your case includes a front USB-C port, it requires a USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C header on the motherboard — verify this header is present on your board before purchasing a case that features front USB-C.

#17

Connect all fan headers and AIO pump header to the motherboard's fan and pump header pins

Case fans connected to the motherboard's system fan headers (SYS_FAN, CHA_FAN) receive automatic speed control based on temperature — fans connected directly to the PSU via Molex adapters run at full speed at all times and cannot be monitored. The CPU cooler fan connects to CPU_FAN. For AIO liquid coolers: the pump connects to CPU_OPT or AIO_PUMP (check your manual) and should be configured to run at 100% speed in BIOS — the pump should never throttle based on temperature. If you have more case fans than available headers, a PWM splitter allows multiple fans to share one header while maintaining speed control from the motherboard.

#18

Route cables through the rear chamber and secure with Velcro straps or zip ties

Cables running loose through the main chamber obstruct airflow between intake fans and the GPU and CPU cooler, raising temperatures. Route cables through the dedicated openings in the motherboard tray: the 24-pin along the right edge, SATA and storage cables along the bottom, the 8-pin CPU cable through the top routing hole. Velcro straps — often included with the case — are preferable to zip ties because they can be adjusted without cutting. For modular PSUs: only install the cables you actually use; store remaining cables in the PSU box to avoid rear chamber clutter. After routing, look through the case from the front panel side and confirm no cables obstruct the fan intake area.

#19

Enter BIOS on first boot and verify all installed components are recognized

Access BIOS by pressing the key shown during the POST screen — typically Delete or F2, though some boards use F10 or Escape (check your motherboard manual for the exact key). On the BIOS main page, confirm: the CPU model and temperature are displayed correctly; total installed RAM matches your kit's capacity; all storage devices appear (NVMe drives show as M.2 entries, SATA drives as separate device entries); and connected fan headers show RPM readings. If installed RAM capacity is lower than expected, one stick may be unseated or in the wrong slot. If an M.2 drive is absent, verify it is fully seated and in the correct protocol-compatible slot.

#20

Enable XMP (Intel platforms) or EXPO (AMD platforms) to activate RAM's rated speed

Without XMP or EXPO activation, RAM runs at the JEDEC base speed regardless of its rated speed — a DDR5-6000 kit defaults to DDR5-4800, and a DDR4-3600 kit defaults to DDR4-2133. The setting is typically in a BIOS section labeled AI Overclock Tuner, DOCP, or Memory; select the profile matching your RAM's rated speed. The system may restart once during speed validation. If the system crashes immediately after enabling XMP, try the next lower speed profile — not all systems achieve peak rated speed on the first attempt, particularly at DDR5-6400 and above, where some motherboard traces require slightly conservative settings.

#21

Enable Resizable BAR (Intel) or Smart Access Memory (AMD) if your CPU and GPU both support it

Resizable BAR and AMD Smart Access Memory are the same technology: they allow the CPU to access the full GPU video memory rather than a fixed 256MB window, improving performance in games that benefit from this access pattern. Gains vary by title — typically 2–10% improvement, with some games seeing more. Requirements: Intel 10th gen or newer, or AMD Ryzen 5000/7000 series CPU; a compatible GPU; and BIOS support with the feature enabled. The setting is typically found under PCIe or Advanced settings in BIOS. It is off by default on most boards and also requires enabling via a toggle in the NVIDIA or AMD GPU driver control panel after OS installation.

#22

Set boot priority for OS installation — USB installer first, internal SSD after install completes

In the BIOS Boot section, set the USB installer drive as the first boot device. After OS installation completes, return to BIOS and promote the internal NVMe SSD to first priority, or simply remove the USB drive and let BIOS fall through to the next available device. A faster alternative for a one-time USB boot: use the one-time boot menu (typically F8, F11, or F12 during startup) to select the USB drive without permanently changing the boot order. This avoids the extra BIOS visit and is quicker for builders who won't need the USB drive again.

#23

Perform a clean Windows installation from the bootable USB — choose custom installation, not upgrade

Boot from the Windows installer USB and select 'Custom: Install Windows only (advanced)' when prompted for an installation type. Select the unformatted NVMe SSD as the target; Windows creates the required system partitions automatically. Complete the Windows Out-of-Box Experience before installing any drivers or applications. After reaching the desktop, follow this order: Windows Updates first (this may take two rounds of updates to fully complete), then chipset drivers from the motherboard manufacturer's support page, then GPU drivers downloaded directly from NVIDIA.com or AMD.com, then applications. Installing GPU drivers before chipset drivers occasionally causes driver conflicts on fresh installations.

#24

Install chipset and GPU drivers, then open Device Manager and clear all yellow warning flags

After Windows installation, Device Manager (right-click Start > Device Manager) will likely show several devices marked with yellow warning icons — these indicate missing drivers. Download chipset drivers from your motherboard manufacturer's support page by searching the exact model number. Download GPU drivers from the official NVIDIA or AMD website rather than through Windows Update — manufacturer packages include control panel software and game-ready optimizations that Windows Update drivers lack. After GPU driver installation the display jumps to native resolution, and the GPU appears in Device Manager without warnings. Any remaining yellow flags after both driver sets are installed should be researched individually — most are minor but some indicate a missing peripheral driver.

#25

Run Cinebench R23 and 3DMark to establish CPU and GPU performance baselines

Cinebench R23 (free) measures CPU rendering performance in single-core and multi-core modes — compare your scores against published reference scores for your CPU model. Scores significantly below published averages (more than 10–15%) indicate that XMP/EXPO may be disabled, the CPU is thermally throttling, or the CPU cooler has a contact issue. 3DMark (free tier at futuremark.com) runs a GPU-intensive benchmark and produces a score comparable across systems with the same GPU — this baseline is useful for diagnosing degraded GPU performance months later. Save your benchmark results; they become your reference point for future troubleshooting.

#26

Run Prime95 for 30 minutes and FurMark for 10 minutes while monitoring temperatures with HWiNFO64

Prime95's 'Small FFTs' test (prime95.com) stresses the CPU at near-maximum sustained load. Monitor CPU package temperature with HWiNFO64 throughout — it should stay below 90°C under load; readings above 95°C indicate a cooler installation issue requiring re-seating and fresh thermal paste. FurMark stresses the GPU — temperatures should remain below 85°C; readings above 90°C suggest a case airflow problem. If Prime95 triggers a crash or blue screen within the first 30 minutes, the most common cause is RAM instability from an aggressive XMP profile — disable XMP temporarily to determine if that's the source, then test a slightly lower speed profile.

#27

Monitor temperatures with HWiNFO64 during the first 3–5 real gaming sessions

Stress test results and gaming temperatures differ: games apply variable GPU and CPU loads that stress different thermal scenarios than synthetic tests. Use HWiNFO64 in background sensor mode during gaming to capture peak and average readings. Healthy gaming ranges: CPU below 85–90°C under intense load; GPU at 70–85°C, with some modern cards designed to operate closer to 90°C (check the manufacturer's rated maximum junction temperature). Consistent frame rate drops paired with temperature spikes indicate thermal throttling. A build that passes stress tests but crashes in a specific game typically points to a driver incompatibility or a game-specific known issue — check GPU driver release notes and the game's support forum.

#28

🔧 What you need before a single screw turns

Non-negotiable

Phillips #2 screwdriver — magnetic tip. A magnetized tip is the detail most guides omit. There are 20–30 screws in a typical build; dropping one inside a partially assembled case without a magnetic retrieval method wastes 20 minutes.
Small cup or tray. Screws come in multiple sizes. Mixing them — or losing one — causes delays at the worst possible moment.
Strong overhead light or headlamp. Case interiors go dark fast. Reading cable labels by feel alone is how front panel headers get connected wrong.
Long-nose tweezers. Front panel header connectors are too small to seat reliably with fingers alone.

Useful additions

Anti-static wrist strap (~$8). Clips to the metal case frame and continuously grounds you. Not strictly required if you touch bare metal before handling components, but eliminates the variable entirely.
Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free cloth. Needed only if you have to remove and re-seat a cooler — for cleaning thermal paste off the IHS before reapplication.
Zip ties or Velcro straps. Most cases include these. If yours doesn't, a $5 pack covers two builds.
Phone or camera nearby. Photograph the front panel header block and interior cable layout before disconnecting anything — reference photos prevent re-work.

⏱️ How long does a first build actually take?

Guides say 2–3 hours. For a first build, budget 4–6. Here is where the time genuinely goes — and the one part that catches nearly everyone off guard.

30–45 min

Bench test outside the case — CPU, cooler, RAM, GPU, PSU — before touching the case at all

60–90 min

Case installation, cable routing, and front panel headers — the fiddliest part of the build

60–90 min

BIOS setup, Windows installation, driver downloads, and first benchmark runs

The part that surprises most first-time builders: front panel headers alone can take 20–30 minutes. These are the small 2-pin connectors for the power button, reset button, and LEDs. The motherboard pin grid is dense, the connectors are small, and lighting inside the case is poor. Budget that time deliberately and keep tweezers within reach.

⚠️ It powers on but nothing appears on screen — work through this in order

A blank display on first boot is not a sign of catastrophic failure — it's a starting point with a well-documented sequence of causes. Work through these before assuming any component is dead.

Confirm the 8-pin CPU power connector is fully seated. Trace the cable from the PSU to the top-left area of the motherboard. If it's partially plugged in or missing entirely, the symptom is exactly this: fans spin, lights come on, no display.
Check for motherboard diagnostic LEDs. Most modern boards include QLED indicators — small labeled LEDs (CPU, DRAM, VGA, BOOT) near the PCIe area. The lit LED identifies which component failed to initialize, dramatically narrowing troubleshooting.
Reseat RAM one stick at a time. Remove both sticks, reinstall a single stick in the A2 slot, and attempt boot. Try the other stick alone. If one stick boots and the other doesn't, you have a faulty module rather than a slot or board issue.
Try a different display connection. If the GPU has multiple output ports, try a different port or a different cable type — a faulty HDMI or DisplayPort cable produces an identical blank-screen symptom to a hardware fault.
Clear the CMOS. If the board previously POSTed but now won't — especially after a BIOS change — short the CLR_CMOS jumper or remove the CMOS battery for 30 seconds to reset the BIOS to factory defaults. This resolves instability caused by incorrect BIOS settings.

📐 GPU sag — minor concern or real damage?

Modern flagship GPUs — the RTX 4080 Super, RTX 4090, and RX 7900 XTX — weigh between 800g and 1.4kg. Mounted horizontally in a PCIe slot, the unsupported rear of the card droops noticeably. Over months and years, this mechanical stress on the PCIe connector and GPU PCB is real. It won't destroy a card overnight, but it is a contributing factor in long-term slot wear.

The fix is simple: most mid-to-high-end cases now include a GPU support bracket that clips into the lower PCIe slot area. Aftermarket GPU sag brackets are available from multiple vendors for $10–$20. For cards in the 1kg+ range, add one before the first power-on rather than after noticing the sag weeks later.

📖 The $240 RAM mistake

A builder purchased a DDR5-6000 kit — a thoughtful choice for their Ryzen 7 7800X3D platform. Six weeks of gaming later, they ran a benchmark and noticed their scores were about 15% below expected. The cause: XMP had never been enabled in BIOS. Their $240 kit had been running at DDR5-4800 since day one — the system was stable, nothing crashed, and there was no visual indication anything was wrong.

This is one of the most common post-build discoveries on forums like r/buildapc. The BIOS XMP activation step looks optional to a first-time builder because everything works without it. It isn't optional if you paid for rated-speed RAM.

💰 Where to spend and where to save across the full build

When the total budget is fixed, the order of compromise matters more than any individual component price. The most common mistake is spreading budget too evenly rather than prioritizing what drives the experience you're building for.

Component	Priority	Reasoning
GPU	Highest	Determines frame rate in nearly every game; the most direct path to a better gaming experience
PSU	High	A failure here damages every other component; this is never the place to cut corners
CPU	Medium-high	CPU bottleneck becomes visible at high refresh rates (144Hz+) and in CPU-bound titles
RAM	Medium	16GB is the minimum; 32GB is the gaming sweet spot for 2025 and beyond; speed matters on AMD platforms
NVMe SSD	Medium	PCIe 4.0 NVMe is the practical minimum; PCIe 5.0 adds significant cost with minimal real-world gaming benefit today
Motherboard	Lower	Mid-range boards support all gaming use cases; flagship features (extreme overclocking, 10Gbps LAN) rarely matter for gaming
Case and fans	Lower	Good airflow matters; aesthetics, RGB, and tempered glass panels do not affect performance at any level

🌐 Where to get help if you're stuck

r/buildapc

Reddit's most active PC building community. Post your PCPartPicker list for pre-purchase feedback or describe a no-POST symptom for community troubleshooting. Millions of solved cases in the searchable archive — most first-build problems have been seen dozens of times.

Gamers Nexus (YouTube)

The most technically detailed video coverage of PC hardware and build processes. Their cooler installation walkthroughs are particularly useful — many cooler manuals are ambiguous on mounting pressure and paste application specifics that Gamers Nexus covers in granular detail.

Motherboard manufacturer support pages

Bookmark your motherboard's support page before the build begins. It hosts BIOS update files, chipset drivers, and the PDF manual. BIOS changelogs also list CPU compatibility additions — useful if your board needed an update for your CPU.

PCPartPicker build guides

Completed build lists submitted by other users, filterable by budget and use case. Useful for validating parts list choices and finding configurations that others have confirmed stable — the comments on individual builds often surface compatibility nuances that specs pages don't mention.

✅ One thing worth doing after the build is "done"

Take five minutes to document what you built. Photograph the interior cable layout, save your PCPartPicker parts list to a bookmark or note, and write down the model numbers of your motherboard, GPU, and CPU cooler. This list is invaluable for: warranty claims (which require model and serial numbers), finding the correct driver versions, and answering the question "what RAM does this board take?" the next time you want to upgrade. Builders who skip this documentation step consistently spend more time on future upgrades than those who kept a simple record.

Master This Checklist Quickly

Every important button and option for this pre-made checklist, shown in a glance-friendly format.

Start Here

1
Click any item row to mark it complete.
2
Use the note row under each item for quick notes.
3
Use the tool row for undo, redo, reset, and check all.
4
Use Save Progress when you want to continue later.

Checklist Row Tools

UndoRedoResetCheck allCollapse/Expand sectionsShow/Hide detailsInline notes

Top Action Buttons

Open all sharing and export options in one menu.

Email DraftContinue on another devicePrint or Save as PDFPlain Text (.txt)Word (.docx)Excel (.xlsx)

Add & Ask

Open one menu for apps and AI guidance.

NotionTodoist CSVChatGPTClaude

Copy and customize

Create a new editable checklist pre-filled with your chosen content.

Save Progress

Adds this checklist to My Checklists and keeps your progress in this browser.

Most Natural Usage

Track over time

Check items -> Add notes where needed -> Save Progress

Send or export

Open Share -> Choose format -> Continue

Make your own version

Copy and customize -> Open create page -> Edit freely